Jonathan Gold

Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

The Gorbals: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

With the Pico Kosher Corridor, bustling Israeli joints and the best delis in the country, Los Angeles is not exactly lacking in Jewish-identified places to eat. But The Gorbals, Ilan Hall's restaurant in the lobby of the old Alexandria Hotel, may be the only Jewish restaurant that has ever served......
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Lazy Ox Canteen: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Like many of the best restaurants of the moment, Lazy Ox is tinged with aggression, leaping like flames from the open kitchen, in this case served up by Joseph Centeno, a young, Texas-born chef with a sweet smile, a working command of Mediterranean, izakaya Japanese and several Latin American cuisines,......
Credit: ANNE FISHBEIN

Rustic Canyon: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

 Like so many other restaurants on the Westside, the food at the wine bar Rustic Canyon owes less to the standard bistro playbook than it does to the kind of cooking that French guys don't consider cooking at all: basically a compendium of what happens to be on the farmers......
Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Playa: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

My first taste of Playa, John Sedlar's small-plates restaurant in the old Grace space up on Beverly, was something called Maize Cake Bombay Taj: a thickish, palm-sized tortilla patted out from freshly ground nixtamal, passed across a griddle just long enough to crisp the surface while leaving the interior soft......
Credit: Anne Fishbein

Waterloo & City: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

It may be a stretch to consider Waterloo & City, a pool-shooting, darts-playing, ale-swilling, Ramones-blasting bar shoehorned into a rundown coffee shop, to be much more than a glorified bar. The place is ostensibly a gastropub, whatever that has come to mean, and there is indeed a Sunday roast; a......
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Campanile: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

The heart of regional cooking lies in the ability of its chefs not only to work within the limitations imposed by the meager ingredients available but also to exalt those limitations as the soul of the cuisine itself. Rich regions eat cheeseburgers every night. Poor regions eke minestrone, socca or......
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El Huarache Azteca: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Without anyone much noticing the transition, Highland Park has become one of the best neighborhoods in Los Angeles to experience regional Mexican cooking. Even the trucks and taco tables serve food from parts of Mexico barely represented here a decade ago. At the vanguard was El Huarache Azteca, which was......
Credit: ANNE FISHBEIN

Sotto: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

First of all, Sotto is not really a pizzeria. I thought I'd get that out of the way. Because while there is an oven — a 15,000-pound behemoth ballasted with imported Vesuvian soil — and chefs Steve Samson and Zack Pollack come from Ortica, the South Coast Plaza restaurant that......
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Le Comptoir: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Le Comptoir is every chef's dream restaurant: a few counter seats, a single menu each night, and the intimacy of a sushi bar — although it is a pop-up, huddled around the open kitchen of the sprawling restaurant Tiara. An armful of fresh herbs pokes from containers on the service......
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Mother Dough: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Are you the type of person who is offended when a pizzeria closes on the rare days when its dough refuses to behave? Then Mother Dough probably isn't for you. Bez Compani nurtures his fire-spitting oven with the ferocity of Hogwarts gamekeeper Hagrid nurturing a dragon child, and when it......