Jonathan Gold

"I want you to taste this," says Lou Amdur, handing you a glass of sour, cloudy liquid that smells like yesterday's bread dough. Although you pride yourself on your palate, and you will later have a conversation about an obscure Loire grape that could almost pass a Turing test, at......

If you walk into Musso expecting to have the same kind of steak you had last week at Morton's, you probably have the wrong idea. Because before the restaurant became a martini-fueled Hollywood clubhouse, the place where Faulkner blew out his liver and generations of character actors learned to show......

When it's pretty late at night, and you are half-woozy on arak and secondhand hookah smoke, and the fried mullet in front of you has long since been transformed into skeletons yet you can't resist swabbing bits of fried pita around the plate, hoping to pick up a stray puddle......

Although the San Gabriel Valley abounds in Chinese restaurants of every description, they tend to lean more toward authenticity than toward polish — there are 250 noodle shops but nowhere to explore Chinese haute cuisine. Chang's Garden, although it occupies a strip-mall space that resembles a Chinese Denny's, is one......

In the great march of regional Mexican cooking across Los Angeles, the cuisine of Puebla is usually reduced to a pair of dishes: mole poblano, which has become a generic term referring to pretty much any mole not made by Oaxacans, and cemitas. In one way, this is a shame,......

It's kind of a miracle to see the graciousness factory at work down at Huckleberry — the sweet smells, the pale walls, the way they keep the lines moving and the tables cleared so that by the time you have stood in line, picked out a scone or a Niman Ranch......

It's slightly embarrassing, but after all these years and all these meals, it is still hard to describe exactly what defines a Suzanne Goin dish, typically but not always a three-comma construction fashioned from farmers market produce, perhaps given a slightly mysterious edge with a touch of Catalonia, Morocco or......

Most people know central Vietnamese cooking strictly through the noodle soup bun bo Hue. But in the Kanh Hoa region, the emblematic dish is nem nuong, a kind of bouncy pork meatball impaled on a skewer, grilled over an open flame and served smoky, sizzling and naked on a plate......

If you wanted a pure blast of Los Angeles in the 1980s, you could listen to an X album. Or you could visit Angeli Caffe, the restaurant home of food-media czar Evan Kleiman, whose menu of roast chicken, tagliata and spaghetti alla checca has barely changed in 25 years, because......