Jonathan Gold

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Mezze: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Mezze, in the former Sona space up on La Cienega, is probably the swankest of the new upscale parlors specializing in meze, Middle Eastern small plates, with the former Zen austerity of the dining room softened by designer Waldo Fernandez, the usual fattoush and tabbouleh given a chefly twist. Micah......
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Ray's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

 An event restaurant the second it opened its doors, Ray's is just past Chris Burden's street-lamp installation at the L.A. County Museum of Art, in a glowing minimalist rectangle that abuts the soaring Ahmanson Gallery like a glass shoebox parked next to a refrigerator. The space is designed by Renzo......
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Bottega Louie: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Lingering on a Saturday morning, swabbing at a poached-egg raviolo with a chunk of fresh epi bread and contemplating the last drops of freshly squeezed tomato juice, it is hard to believe that Bottega Louie hasn't always existed, a modern restaurant scooped out of an old Brooks Brothers store and......
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Dae Bok: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

The next time somebody attempts to tell you that Los Angeles is lacking in cosmopolitan pleasures, it is your civic duty, I think, to point out that the city is big enough and diverse enough to support a restaurant devoted to Korean blowfish stew. Just try finding that in London......
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Golden State: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Not everybody agrees about Golden State. Some people think the cheeseburgers are the best in this part of Los Angeles; others merely place them among the top five. Arguments like these often require ultrahopped suds, which Golden State has by the firkin-load — the place was in the vanguard of......
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Langer's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

By this point, it is a matter of conventional wisdom: Langer's serves the best pastrami sandwich in America. No matter how many doubting New Yorkers you drag here, no matter how many Chowhound throwdowns between Langer's and Katz's there may be, the results are always the same: The thick, peppery,......
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Salt's Cure: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Are you looking for the restaurant of the future? Because I have the feeling it is going to look a lot like Salt's Cure, which works the DIY groove with uncanny finesse. If you want to know what's for dinner, you click the daily Twitter link, which takes you to......
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Park's Barbecue: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

On the Lunar New Year, after we had worked our way through prime rib-eye and brisket, beef tongue and skirt steak, tripe and special pork belly that was not that day the prized Tokyo X, as well as a crisp seafood pancake and the cold noodles called naengmyon, the waitress......
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Tsujita L.A.: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Not long ago, I had barely heard of tsukemen, a Tokyo-born dish of bare noodles, served with a superconcentrated dipping sauce of reduced, fish-flavored pork broth, which apparently is to regular ramen what Intelligentsia is to Folgers. Los Angeles is going through a ramen boom at the moment. But even......
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Din Tai Fung: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Xiao long bao, Shanghai-style soup dumplings, are primary objects of desire in the San Gabriel Valley, hermetically sealed orbs filled with minced pork and potentially lethal doses of scalding juice. Sometimes the soup dumplings are enriched with homeopathically tiny doses of fresh crabmeat; usually they are served with slivers of......