Jonathan Gold

I spend an alarming portion of my reviewing life trying to prove a simple proposition: There must be a better Sichuan restaurant in the Los Angeles area than Chung King. I have chased around the San Gabriel Valley for years, looking for a crunchier version of fried chicken with hot......

A steaming museum of American wiener culture, Fab Hot Dogs is Joe Fabrocini's and Susie Speck Mayor's lovingly curated shrine to the Hatch chile dogs of New Mexico, the slaw dogs of West Virginia, the northern New Jersey–style Italian hot dog and a close facsimile of the street-cart dogs sold......

Suzanne Tracht's snazzy steakhouse reads like a blast from the Rat Pack past: Hollywood Regency plus the Birth of the Cool, chefly riffs on the strip steak and the porterhouse, the hash brown and the french fry that occasionally incorporate every last pea tendril and star-anise infusion in the Asian-fusion......

When the food press gets to talking about the Middle Eastern food in America, Los Angeles rarely enters the conversation alongside Dearborn, New York or even Anaheim. But the concentration of Lebanese-Armenian restaurants in Hollywood and Glendale is astonishing in its size and complexity, although it is often overlooked amid......

You probably wouldn't expect to find L.A.'s best Thai street-food specialist on the Sunset Strip, and you probably wouldn't expect it to be affiliated with the relatively mainstream Talesai, to which it is attached like a leering evil twin. But Kris Yenbamroong, son of Talesai's owners, seems to be as......

Tehrangeles is an extensive commercial strip, two miles of kebab shops, semiformal restaurants and cafés. Yet what keeps drawing me back to Westwood is a modest Iranian sandwich shop. An Attari sandwich is close to a perfect thing: a length of toasted French bread, a layer of main ingredient and......

Everybody knows Church & State. It's that loud bistro decorated with strings of Christmas lights year-round. Walter Manzke used to cook there. It rules its street of luxury lofts, and it is nearly as hard as ever to get a table on a Friday night, even when the tables spill......

Were Angelenos amused when Sang Yoon published a scholarly dissertation on ketchup in the local paper this year? They were. Yoon's reputation was largely built upon his refusal to allow the sticky condiment into Father's Office, which was an unusual position for the owner of a beer bar specializing in......

I am reasonably sure that when Jackie Chan dines at Sea Harbour, he is whisked to a private room, plied with Bordeaux and fed the supreme luxuries of the Hong Kong billionaire's table: that one, live fish in the tank your waiter will never tell you the price of; sun-dried......

Thai Town's boat-noodle wars show no signs of abating, and there may be no end of Thai cafés in the neighborhood claiming to serve the best, the most authentic version, but the homely virtues of Sapp become more apparent by the year. Sapp's boat noodles are magnificent: murky, organ-rich beef......