Jonathan Gold

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Big Meat

Al-WatanLike any serious Pakistani restaurant, Al-Watan ostensibly specializes in the complicated offal dishes that make up the heart of Muslim Pakistani soul food: masala, here a ragout of chopped goat's brains cooked in a bright-red spice paste; and paya, a mildly spicy dish of braised beef and tendon. But the......
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Tofu before noon

Raisin Bran has its place in the world; blueberry pancakes are fine. We have personally fried enough eggs over easy to swamp Dodger Stadium in slightly runny yolk. But on the other side of the world - and in other parts of town - breakfast is more likely to contain......
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Creme Brulee

If you had hung out at the pastry station of any swank restaurant in the mid-'80s, you would have seen a hundred little ramekins of custard and one young woman, armed with a blowtorch and goggles, blasting the tops of each of them as if they were Space Invaders, transmuting......
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Dizie With Anticipation

So how do you eat this?" Margaret said, pointing at her very first serving of the Iranian stew dizie, a complicated concoction involving little bowls of soup, of mashed stew, of powerfully sour pickled vegetables, of fresh herbs.     "You tear up pieces of this bread," said the waiter......
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Wrap Party

All India Café This place is at its best when you bring the fewest preconceptions to the table, when the food least resembles its regional roots. The restaurant’s signature dish is probably the "frankie," a Bombay street snack that the Westside Bombay Cafe brought to Cal i fornia and perfected,......
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A Pretty Good Chinese Restaurant

We all have spent a certain amount of time in the last decade in pursuit of the great Chinese restaurant, the mythical Taiwanese café or the swank Cantonese seafood Valhalla we instinctively know must exist among the several thousand Chinese restaurants in the Los Angeles area. And though that ideal......