Jonathan Gold

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Akasha: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

We can all agree that Akasha is a crunchy Westside fever dream of a restaurant, all recycled this and sustainably raised that, dark woods guaranteed not to have even the address of the rainforest on their BlackBerries and a very nice bowl of steamed quinoa with tofu that could make......
Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Casa Bianca: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Sam Martorana, who was behind the ovens at Casa Bianca for more than 50 years, was such a presence at the red-checked-tablecloth pizzeria that it was hard to imagine it continuing after he passed away. His pizza was idiosyncratic to an extreme: thin when the fashion was for puffy crusts;......
Credit: ANNE FISHBEIN

Street: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

If you were to poll foodistas about L.A. kitchens of the 1980s, you would be likely to come up with a lot of affection for City Restaurant, where Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken explored the idea of L.A. multiculturalism better than any restaurant has before or since, strands of......
Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Guisados: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

In Mexico City, tacos de guisado are the essential units of street-food consumption, thick tortillas splashed with stew from a heated cazuela, strewn with a bit of onion, and thrust at you even before you remember how to pronounce calabacita. Tacos made with carne asada or carnitas are action tacos,......
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Lou: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

"I want you to taste this," says Lou Amdur, handing you a glass of sour, cloudy liquid that smells like yesterday's bread dough. Although you pride yourself on your palate, and you will later have a conversation about an obscure Loire grape that could almost pass a Turing test, at......
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Musso & Frank Grill: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

If you walk into Musso expecting to have the same kind of steak you had last week at Morton's, you probably have the wrong idea. Because before the restaurant became a martini-fueled Hollywood clubhouse, the place where Faulkner blew out his liver and generations of character actors learned to show......
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Jonathan Gold's 99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011

See also Anne Fishbein's slideshow and our Google map. What is an essential Los Angeles restaurant? I was thinking about that over lunch at Providence a couple of months ago, contemplating a dish of Santa Barbara sea urchin cosseted with gently scrambled egg, wondering whether the uni might go better......
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Alcazar: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

When it's pretty late at night, and you are half-woozy on arak and secondhand hookah smoke, and the fried mullet in front of you has long since been transformed into skeletons yet you can't resist swabbing bits of fried pita around the plate, hoping to pick up a stray puddle......
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Chang's Garden: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Although the San Gabriel Valley abounds in Chinese restaurants of every description, they tend to lean more toward authenticity than toward polish — there are 250 noodle shops but nowhere to explore Chinese haute cuisine. Chang's Garden, although it occupies a strip-mall space that resembles a Chinese Denny's, is one......
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Elvirita's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

In the great march of regional Mexican cooking across Los Angeles, the cuisine of Puebla is usually reduced to a pair of dishes: mole poblano, which has become a generic term referring to pretty much any mole not made by Oaxacans, and cemitas. In one way, this is a shame,......