Jonathan Gold

article placeholder

Bottega Louie: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Lingering on a Saturday morning, swabbing at a poached-egg raviolo with a chunk of fresh epi bread and contemplating the last drops of freshly squeezed tomato juice, it is hard to believe that Bottega Louie hasn't always existed, a modern restaurant scooped out of an old Brooks Brothers store and......
article placeholder

Dae Bok: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

The next time somebody attempts to tell you that Los Angeles is lacking in cosmopolitan pleasures, it is your civic duty, I think, to point out that the city is big enough and diverse enough to support a restaurant devoted to Korean blowfish stew. Just try finding that in London......
article placeholder

Golden State: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Not everybody agrees about Golden State. Some people think the cheeseburgers are the best in this part of Los Angeles; others merely place them among the top five. Arguments like these often require ultrahopped suds, which Golden State has by the firkin-load — the place was in the vanguard of......
article placeholder

Langer's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

By this point, it is a matter of conventional wisdom: Langer's serves the best pastrami sandwich in America. No matter how many doubting New Yorkers you drag here, no matter how many Chowhound throwdowns between Langer's and Katz's there may be, the results are always the same: The thick, peppery,......
article placeholder

Salt's Cure: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Are you looking for the restaurant of the future? Because I have the feeling it is going to look a lot like Salt's Cure, which works the DIY groove with uncanny finesse. If you want to know what's for dinner, you click the daily Twitter link, which takes you to......
article placeholder

Park's Barbecue: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

On the Lunar New Year, after we had worked our way through prime rib-eye and brisket, beef tongue and skirt steak, tripe and special pork belly that was not that day the prized Tokyo X, as well as a crisp seafood pancake and the cold noodles called naengmyon, the waitress......
article placeholder

Tsujita L.A.: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Not long ago, I had barely heard of tsukemen, a Tokyo-born dish of bare noodles, served with a superconcentrated dipping sauce of reduced, fish-flavored pork broth, which apparently is to regular ramen what Intelligentsia is to Folgers. Los Angeles is going through a ramen boom at the moment. But even......
article placeholder

Din Tai Fung: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Xiao long bao, Shanghai-style soup dumplings, are primary objects of desire in the San Gabriel Valley, hermetically sealed orbs filled with minced pork and potentially lethal doses of scalding juice. Sometimes the soup dumplings are enriched with homeopathically tiny doses of fresh crabmeat; usually they are served with slivers of......
article placeholder

Good Girl Dinette: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Tucked into a storefront below an old Masonic lodge, in the pierced navel of the Highland Park art scene, Good Girl Dinette is so groovy that sometimes it hurts to think about it, a queercentric, family-friendly, vegan-tolerant storefront with a menu of Vietnamese-American comfort food. It's run by Diep Tran,......
article placeholder

Larkin's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

For a place known for great banana pudding and happy Sunday brunch, this Eagle Rock restaurant is oddly controversial, distrusted by people expecting cheap soul food and snobs looking for haute cuisine, by big fellas looking for Roscoe's-size portions and Southerners skeptical of the trace of fresh mint in the......