Jonathan Gold

getting the check at King Hua; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Navigating a Cantonese Dinner Menu at King Hua

When we non-Chinese visit one of the San Gabriel Valley's handful of grand Cantonese restaurants, such as King Hua in Alhambra, we usually are there for morning dim sum, with its accessible, crowd-pleasing array of dumplings and snacks, or for a friend's banquet, where we enjoy the suckling pig and......
the invisible restaurant critic; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Authentic Tamales, Fit to Serve Mom

Dear Mr. Gold: My mom is coming to my house for Christmas for the first time ever and I volunteered to cook, decorate, the whole nine yards. She is Mexican and is traditional on holidays, which means every year she makes tamales. I never learned or watched, unfortunately; I just......
House-made cheese with preserved cherry; Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Jonathan Gold Reviews Le Comptoir

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow. In the demimonde of post-aughts Los Angeles, where the value of a meal out may lie less in the dent it leaves on your Visa card than in the discomfort involved in obtaining a table, there are three levels of almost-restaurants, the phenomenon in......
clam chowder at Neptune's Net; Credit: N. Galuten

Neptune's Net: When You're in a Bad-ass Seafood Mood

When the weather gets cool, the surf gets big and the traffic on PCH dies down, Malibu once again belongs to us, free of the tourist hordes in their rented Aveos. And so we crank down the top, crank up the Suicidal Tendencies and bomb up the coast to Neptune's......
the invisible restaurant critic; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Late Night in Little Tokyo

Dear Mr. Gold: I was wondering if you had any ideas for a place to eat after 10 p.m. in Little Tokyo or downtown. We're meeting a group of people for dinner after a movie, and we wanted to try something outside of the normal sushi/ramen/izakaya stuff. --Victor-Schechter, via Facebook......
Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

Cooks County: A Perfect First-date Restaurant?

At the end of 2011, the year that the gastropub finally wrestled formal dining into a bathtub to drown, we pretty much know what a good, new restaurant is going to look like. There will be an open kitchen, and noise, and a very decent selection of obscure wines by......
Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Animal: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Would you like to go to Animal? I mean right this second? You're probably out of luck, because it's the most popular restaurant in Los Angeles at the moment. The seats are already filled with twice-a-week regulars, chefs in town for a taping, fantastically beautiful women attracted to the testosterone......
Credit: Anne Fishbein

Tasting Kitchen: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

 Even after a couple of years, the Tasting Kitchen feels more like an art collective than it does a proper restaurant, a place where the odd discussions you have with your neighbors at the communal table seem as vital to the project as the fig bruschetta, and servers drift in......
Credit: ANNE FISHBEIN

Spice Table: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

You might expect a restaurant from the opening chef of Pizzeria Mozza to be jammed from the moment it opened, and you wouldn't be surprised to find quartinos of crisp Italian white wine. Diligent ingredient sourcing would practically be a given, as would be the wood-burning oven and the complex......
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Ink.: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

I'm not sure what you do when you get up in the morning. I tend to check the online reservation page at Michael Voltaggio's restaurant Ink., in case it lets me know that a four-top might be available at 9:45 p.m. on a Tuesday 23 days from now. I'm not......