Jonathan Gold

the invisible restaurant critic; Credit: Anne Fishbein

In Search of Curly Fries, Like They Have in Missouri

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a hankering for some grease. I would like it to come in the form of a "brick" of Susie-Q french fries. I don't want any of these wimpy curly fries people talk about, looking like lost potato eyelashes on the plate. None of this fancy......
Red Medicine's chef Jordan Kahn; Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Jonathan Gold's 10 Best Dishes of 2011

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. Roast marrowbones with prawn sambal In a year when Los Angeles cooking came together with a coherence it probably hasn't seen since the mid-1980s, this dish at Spice Table seemed to express everything important about local cuisine. The roast marrowbone is a touchstone......
the invisible restaurant critic; Credit: Anne Fishbein

The World in Dumplings: Or, Not Living By XLB Alone

Dear Mr. Gold: I'd like to do a tour of the world's cuisines through dumplings. Xiao long bao may be my favorite food on Earth, but one does not live by XLB alone. So far I've got momo, gyoza, shui jiao, samosa and piroshki on the list, even though the......
Pepper steak; Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Jonathan Gold Reviews Dal Rae

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. The Dal Rae at Christmas — freaking hell, the Dal Rae at Christmas, a pulsing, meat-scented wonderland of dark wood and smoked mirrors and shrimp cocktails as big as spaniel pups, Old-Fashioneds pulsing with sugar, tiny lightbulbs of such profusion and such blinking......
Com Tam Thuan Kieu; Credit: Flickr/Cathy Danh

Night of the Broken Rice at Com Tam Thuan Kieu

Com tam is pure Vietnamese soul food, jagged shards of rice broken in the threshing process, repurposed as lunch -- com tam with a bit of scallion oil is among the cheapest and most delicious things you could eat. As with such former poverty staples as quinoa or chestnut flour,......
the invisible restaurant critic; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Churros for Hanukkah: Oil and Pluralism

Dear Mr. Gold: It's Hanukkah, and I want to have a party, but I live in a small apartment and hate frying things because the smell never goes away. I thought I would have a churros and spiked cider party instead. Where is the best place to get churros? --D......
Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

The Return of El Gallo Grill

When foodists talk about the deceased restaurants of East Los Angeles, you will always hear mention of Gallo's Grill, which for a time gave the neighborhood a glimpse at what a Mexican steakhouse might be: warm, thick corn tortillas patted to order; fresh salsas perched on intricate wrought-iron stands; and......
Shrimp aguachiles; Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Jonathan Gold Reviews Coni'Seafood

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. Do you ever glance at Chowhound? Because once you get past the dim sum speculation, burger arguments and bickering about Taiwanese beef noodle soup, the site seems almost custom-designed to follow the unspooling saga of the mariscos empire Mariscos Chente and the journey......
Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

The Vol. 94: McSweetbreads + The Invasion of the Small Plates

The invasion of the small plates is not finished, oh no. It is marching down our streets and avenues, invading our towns and villages, leaving behind nothing in its wake but duck-slider crumbs, remnants of Fiscalini bandaged cheddar and sticky drops of California sauvignon blanc. You may attempt to escape,......