Jonathan Gold

the invisible restaurant critic; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Bouillabaisse: Meant for the Poor, Now for the Rich

Dear Mr. Gold: It's that time of year, cold and dark early, which means there is nothing more inviting than that wave of heat and spice when you enter a great Italian trattoria. I'm hunting for the best bouillabaisse in town, in a joint that is as unpretentious as it......
Angeli Caffe's final days; Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Jonathan Gold's Angeli Caffe Eulogy

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. The chilly Wednesday evening before Angeli Caffe closed for good, you could grab a bar seat at Pizzeria Mozza without waiting, and there were only two or three dudes in line at Pink's hot dog stand. If you were ambling down Melrose on......
Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

Sushi Kimagure Ike: Pasadena's Best Sushi Bar Ever?

For years, Sushi Ike was the best sushi bar in Hollywood, the place you went when you wanted to escape from the fishy neologisms of Geisha House and Katsu-Ya for something close to classic, Edo-style sushi. Ike-san was never a flashy sushi chef, but he was beloved for his skill......
the invisible restaurant critic; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Where in L.A. is Tarte Flambée?

Dear Mr. Gold: A friend of mine lives near the French eatery La Poubelle and I live close to Cafe Stella. We alternate. But while La Poubelle serves flatbread, Stella does not. And I've been thinking: Why is tarte flambée so hard to find in Los Angeles? Could you suggest......
Kyochon's signature wings; Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Jonathan Gold Reviews Westfield Culver City Food Court

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. The loneliest evening I ever spent in New Orleans was on my first visit to the city, at the glistening food court into which the great soul-food cook Buster Holmes had been transplanted, half a century on Burgundy Street boiled into a tiny......
Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

Milo and Olive: 3rd Wave Pizza + Empire-building in Santa Monica

Those Rustic Canyon guys? It's an empire they're building in Santa Monica, from ice cream, to wine, to breakfast -- and now pizza, at this new, perpetually crowded small-plates restaurant whose dining room probably is smaller than some of its customers' breakfast nooks. Really, once you've resigned yourself to waiting......
the invisible restaurant critic; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Jewish Iraqi Food: Yes, But in Los Angeles?

Dear Mr. Gold: My parents are coming to visit soon and I was hoping to do them proud by finding some authentic Iraqi cuisine akin to what my Baghdad-born father grew up eating just outside of Tel Aviv. His mother has stuffed us many a visit with things like sambusak,......
muhammara sauce; Credit: Flickr/Polkaroo

Carousel: The Joy of Mezze, With or Without Belly Dancing

The Lebanese-Armenian restaurant Carousel has been holding down its position in Little Armenia longer than almost anyone can remember, as it's a reliable place for kebab platters, the usual salads, and an exemplary version of muhammara, a rough, spicy paste of pomegranate molasses, roasted peppers and crushed walnuts that carries......