Jonathan Gold

the invisible restaurant critic; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Chinese Dinner for Christmas

Dear Mr. Gold: My husband and I, originally from Connecticut, are fairly new to L.A., and have had a hard time finding good Chinese food. This is our first year as a married couple and we're looking for a nice restaurant in which to restart our tradition of Chinese dinner......
Beefsteak 2011 organizers Cort Cass

Jonathan Gold Reviews a Beefsteak at Vibiana

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. If a deranged chef held a fish knife to my throat and demanded that I name the greatest chunk of food writing ever put into print, I'm pretty sure that after a bit of waffling about Calvin Trillin and Collette and a rant......
Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

Bäco Mercat: An Exam in Culinary Poststructuralism

Some new small-plates restaurants are content to serve you hamburgers and fries. Others bring in influences from Singapore, Copenhagen or Tokyo. But the menu at Bäco Mercat, the new restaurant from Joseph Centeno of Lazy Ox, reads almost like a graduate exam in culinary poststructuralism, mixing flavors from Italy, France,......
Char-siu tsukemen; Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Jonathan Gold Reviews Tsujita L.A.

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow. Last year was L.A.'s year of ramen, if you're keeping score, the year when the utility noodle bowl became a fetish object, and even casual eaters began to go on about tonkotsu broth and flavor bombs, kotteri and fresh negi, and my friends seemed......
Organic chicken pot pie

Jonathan Gold Reviews MB Post

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow. May we get this out of the way? Because whatever impression you take away from MB Post, whether you are there for the killer mojitos, the giant french fries or the waitresses who look as if they just got off the Beach Volleyball Tour,......
Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

Maximiliano's: Congratulations, Highland Park

Congratulations, Highland Park! Because you've finally transcended a soul-crushing abundance of taqueros, great bars and really good regional Mexican restaurants with a slightly befuddling celebrity-chef-owned trattoria of your very own. The conceit here is re-invented red-sauce Italian cooking, enlivened by high design -- plywood fins; green soffiting; red walls etched......