Jonathan Gold

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El Parian: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

At this point in my life, I could no more change my allegiance to El Parian than I could my blind devotion to the Lakers. Because I've been coming here since the early days of Showtime, long enough to remember when the waitresses asked not if you would like to......
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Guelaguetza: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

If any restaurant has earned the right to kick its shoes off and chill for a while, it is probably Guelaguetza, which introduced essential Oaxacan cooking to Los Angeles 20 years ago, and is the place where the governor of Oaxaca stops in for dinner when he passes through town......
Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Little Dom's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Dark wood, deep booths and Sinatra; Manhattans and "dago red"; spaghetti and meatballs — your instincts tell you South Jersey, but chef Brandon Boudet grew up in New Orleans, and Little Dom's seems patterned after the neighborhood joints in that city, grown-up places where the local preferences for anise, artichokes......
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Mozza: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Mozza has been sprawling so relentlessly that some of us have taken to calling it the Mozza Industrial Complex. And every time you poke your head into Nancy Silverton's outpost of the Batali-Bastianich empire, there is new ground to surveil — this year, it has been the magnificent whole-hog dinners......
Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Providence: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

At this point in his career, Michael Cimarusti has the chef thing down cold, poised when he addresses environmental forums and genial on TV, the first chef in town to embrace the new cocktailian movement and an advocate for the coherence of Los Angeles cuisine. If you've recently come into......
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Jonathan Gold Reviews Sotto

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow. First of all, Sotto is not really a pizzeria. I thought I'd get that out of the way. Because while there is an oven, a 15,000-pound behemoth ballasted with imported Vesuvian soil, and chefs Steve Samson and Zack Pollack come from Ortica, the South......
House-made bread with lardo pestato; Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Jonathan Gold Reviews Sotto

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow. First of all, Sotto is not really a pizzeria. I thought I'd get that out of the way. Because while there is an oven, a 15,000-pound behemoth ballasted with imported Vesuvian soil, and chefs Steve Samson and Zack Pollack come from Ortica, the South......
One of the many intriguing dishes at Sea Harbour.; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Sea Harbour: I Love The Smell of Tendon in The Morning

In exotica-obsessed Los Angeles, it is perhaps not unusual to dine on things like spinach sauteed with minced foie gras, steamed rice sheets with bitter melon, fried ox tripe and tendon with noodle rolls, dumplings stuffed with chestnut and shrimp, or claypot rice with house-cured duck, sausage and pork. But......
Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

Beer Belly: From Death By Duck to Lucky Charms Pancakes

We are in Koreatown. The customers are Korean. The chef won this year's Korean BBQ cookoff, with a dish of kimchi-brined pork loin with Cismontane Double IPA ssam-jang. But we are not eating Korean food -- we are eating something called Death by Duck, which is to say fries crisped......