Jonathan Gold

If you were to poll foodistas about L.A. kitchens of the 1980s, you would be likely to come up with a lot of affection for City Restaurant, where Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken explored the idea of L.A. multiculturalism better than any restaurant has before or since, strands of......

In Mexico City, tacos de guisado are the essential units of street-food consumption, thick tortillas splashed with stew from a heated cazuela, strewn with a bit of onion, and thrust at you even before you remember how to pronounce calabacita. Tacos made with carne asada or carnitas are action tacos,......

See also Anne Fishbein's slideshow and our Google map. What is an essential Los Angeles restaurant? I was thinking about that over lunch at Providence a couple of months ago, contemplating a dish of Santa Barbara sea urchin cosseted with gently scrambled egg, wondering whether the uni might go better......

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow. First of all, Sotto is not really a pizzeria. I thought I'd get that out of the way. Because while there is an oven, a 15,000-pound behemoth ballasted with imported Vesuvian soil, and chefs Steve Samson and Zack Pollack come from Ortica, the South......

Our wide-ranging restaurant critic Jonathan Gold returns to the Westside to take another bite out of Sotto.Sotto is a different kind of Italian restaurant, a shrine to the awesome heat of its oven, a place where the hot, fresh bread can come with pureed lardo instead of olive oil if......

In exotica-obsessed Los Angeles, it is perhaps not unusual to dine on things like spinach sauteed with minced foie gras, steamed rice sheets with bitter melon, fried ox tripe and tendon with noodle rolls, dumplings stuffed with chestnut and shrimp, or claypot rice with house-cured duck, sausage and pork. But......

We are in Koreatown. The customers are Korean. The chef won this year's Korean BBQ cookoff, with a dish of kimchi-brined pork loin with Cismontane Double IPA ssam-jang. But we are not eating Korean food -- we are eating something called Death by Duck, which is to say fries crisped......