Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I have a good risotto? Half of the time I've had it in L.A., it has been sticky and overcooked. --Lorenzo Rossi, via Facebook......
Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. It is selfish, perhaps, to covet another city's Thai restaurant; to wonder what it might be like if a favorite kitchen were on Melrose instead of in, say, Kitsilano. Los Angeles probably has more regional Thai restaurants than the rest of North America......
Everybody knows Church and State. It's that loud bistro, decorated year-round with strings of Christmas lights. Walter Manzke used to cook there. The drinks used to be good, too. Is it still there? That part of downtown was pretty cool before the Old Bank district took over. As it happens,......
In New York, Xi'an Famous Foods, a tiny, sticky-tabled Flushing basement dive, sprouted into a Shaanxi-cooking empire, helped along both by Voice critic Robert Sietsema's advocacy and by Anthony Bourdain's televised moans of pleasure. And a sleek, San Gabriel Valley equivalent became almost inevitable......
Dear Mr. Gold: What's your favorite place to eat Hue/Central Vietnam food in Los Angeles? Also, do you ever venture down to the O.C. for some eats? --Brian Tran, via Facebook......
Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. Today, we examine xian bing, dough disks about the size and weight of a shuffleboard puck, tawny brown, slightly domed, mottled on the surface with a pebbly pattern that resembles Chinese characters from across the room, but up close looks more like Braille......
Dear Mr. Gold: I dearly miss the hand-pulled lagman noodles at the long-shuttered Uzbekistan in Hollywood. The significant chew and the hearty accompanying lamb and vegetable sauce still haunt my memories. I've yet to find a replacement of the Central Asia variety as opposed to the welcome, but different, Chinese......
What's the Italian equivalent of barbecue? Neapolitan pizza, I'm betting. Because proper Neapolitan pizza, fashioned from Caputo tipo 00 flour imported from Naples, crushed tomatoes from San Marzano and cheese from the finest buffalos, is a man's game through and through, a seemingly simple food that rewards incredibly expensive equipment,......
Want to make a grown woman blush? Suggest that the reason she wants to go to Gjelina, the serene patio restaurant on Abbot Kinney, is because she wants to gaze deeply into a scruffy waiter's eyes. She will object, of course, claiming that what she wants is the Cavaillon melon......
Dear Mr. Gold: I dearly miss the hand-pulled lagman noodles at the long-shuttered Uzbekistan in Hollywood. The significant chew and the hearty accompanying lamb and vegetable sauce still haunts my memories. I've yet to find a replacement of the Central Asia variety opposed to the welcomed, but different, Chinese pulled......
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