Jonathan Gold

Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

Settebello: Neapolitan Pizza, Nutella Pizza + Italian Condoms!

What's the Italian equivalent of barbecue? Neapolitan pizza, I'm betting. Because proper Neapolitan pizza, fashioned from Caputo tipo 00 flour imported from Naples, crushed tomatoes from San Marzano and cheese from the finest buffalos, is a man's game through and through, a seemingly simple food that rewards incredibly expensive equipment,......
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Jonathan Gold Recommends Ink.

Los Angeles is the land where the celebrity chef was born, where Q ratings ruled, where journalists first learned to ask, "What do you cook on your night off?'' But L.A. has never seen a phenomenon like Michael Voltaggio, whose snarling passion, antihero good looks and devotion to his chef......
Pancetta-wrapped breadstick; Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Jonathan Gold Reviews Mozza's Whole Hog Dinners

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. Were we talking about pop-ups, just the two of us? Because if you've been paying attention to this space, the subject has come up quite a bit lately: pop-ups within bakeries; pop-ups within breakfast joints; pop-ups in pizza parlors, supermarkets, even in the......
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Jonathan Gold Recommends Book Club Eats

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm in a book club with some pretty amazing women. All of us are mothers — read: limited budget but willing to splurge on something special. We read mostly fiction, and a couple of books on our calendar are set in foreign countries, one in France, the......
Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

More Ink for Michael Voltaggio's Ink

Los Angeles is the land where the celebrity chef was born, where Q ratings ruled, where journalists first learned to ask, "What do you cook on your night off?'' But L.A. has never seen a phenomenon like Michael Voltaggio, whose snarling passion, antihero good looks and devotion to his chef......
the invisible restaurant critic; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Where to have a Book Club Dinner + a Caveat

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm in a book club with some pretty amazing women. All of us are mothers -- read: limited budget but willing to splurge on something special. We read mostly fiction, and a couple of books on our calendar are set in foreign countries, one in France, the......
Tinga taco; Credit: PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Jonathan Gold Reviews Guisados

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. Today's object of desire: chiles torreados, which is to say chiles, sauteed over a high heat until they blister and char, served in a steaming, fragrant mass that both tinges and overwhelms everything it touches with sustained chile heat. Chiles torreados aren't particularly......
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Jonathan Gold Recommends La Paella

Dear Mr. Gold: Is there anywhere in L.A. where I can find angulas — Spanish baby eels? —Anthony Pan, via Facebook Dear Mr. Pan: Angulas? Really? Eels are slithering toward the endangered list, you know. We probably should lay off the babies for a while, no matter how delicious they......
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Jonathan Gold Recommends Next Door by Josie

I saw the best chefs of my generation employed by gastropubs; Racer 5, wild game chili, dry-rubbed riblets with their calico slaw dragging themselves through the steel seats at dawn looking for artisanal grits, molasses-glazed bacon, with New Orleans spiced shrimp, beer-and-bacon caramel corn. “Yes, it is that good,” she......
Jonagold apples; Credit: F. Friesema

Next Door by Josie, In Free Verse

I saw the best chefs of my generation employed by gastropubs; Racer 5, wild game chili, dry-rubbed riblets with their calico slaw dragging themselves through the steel seats at dawn looking for artisanal grits, molasses-glazed bacon, with New Orleans spiced shrimp, beer-and-bacon caramel corn. "Yes it is that good," she......