There comes a point in life at which we must acknowledge the contentious relationship between good and bad breakfast burritos. You might feel nostalgia for the hungover Sundays of youth, when you could wolf down a toddler-sized breakfast burrito with impunity, but it's time to admit it — nostalgia never tastes as good as you remember. Instead, put your breakfast burrito faith in a place far too young for nostalgia: Cofax, the Fairfax coffee shop from the impresarios behind Golden State and Bludso's Bar-&-Que. The burrito here is magnificent, packed with chorizo, eggs, cheese, tortilla chips and potatoes smoked at Bludso's. Hit it with their bright salsa and it becomes transcendent. It's the burrito of the moment, but it will probably become the subject of future nostalgia, too.

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