Embracing the renaissance of the specialty neighborhood food shop means accepting some inconvenience. You're there for say, a jar of jam and a wedge of cheese. There might be bread, there might not be. It could depend on the amount of limited shelf space, or it might vary day to day.

Buying meat and fish at McCall's Meat & Fish Co. in Los Feliz usually means buying proteins to cook within the next day or so, and maybe some La Quercia prosciuttio or butter from the self-serve fridge or a bag of Marconas. Need a lemon to go with the beautiful skate wing? That you will have to rustle up somewhere else. But this situation will change in November when McCall's expansion project is complete.

“Our goal is to be more of a one stop shop while keeping our original focus on not over saturating our selection,” explains co-owner Nathan McCall. Instead of moving to another spot, as the team had considered (McCall owns the shop with his wife and fellow chef/butcher, Karen Yoo), they seized the opportunity to take over the adjacent storefront, formerly occupied by Alberto Salon. The couple is doing the design work themselves; essentially they're continuing the style and function of the existing space that's worked so well for them over the past almost-three years.

So what else is in store for the not-too-much-bigger-but-definitely-better McCall's? “A few more items in our meat and fish cases,” McCall says, along with “a select variety of cheese, dairy, produce, spices etc. We will not be overloaded with an enormous selection of these items but more of your everyday essentials, with a few interesting additions.”

The most intriguing of these is Yoo's plan to add a list of “more refined French style pastries” to the roster. “We will also be bringing in a baker so we will be doing fresh baked bread on site,” McCall adds. The beefed up meat/fish and retail part will come first, with the baked goods to follow once the custom oven is finished. If all goes on track, this should happen around the end of November.

Pain au chocolat with aged ribeye? We'll take it.

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