Michelle Huneven

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Ambitious … Pretentious … but Pretty Good Cobbler

Illustration by Christine Haberstock Restaurant Halie, in the historic brick Cheesewright Studios building on Green Street, is pretty discreet-looking from the outside — indeed, the signage is so minimal (a bronze plaque) and the lighting at night so subtle, it’s easy to pass by, even when you’re looking for it......
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Dine and Dish

Cobras & Matadors. Make an effort to remember the name, because the space that used to be Boxer has been transformed (by the same owner) into one of the best tapas restaurants I‘ve been to in Southern California. Normally, one would say tapas bar, but the same difficulty that dogged......
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The Artists of Gruyère

Walking in an Alpine valley in Switzerland, we came upon a small dairy farm. Black-and-white cows grazed in lush green fields. Near a whitewashed barnlike building, a 12-year-old boy in knee-high rubber boots scrubbed the cows’ drinking trough, a great hollowed-out log. With him was a tiny girl, not yet......
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Zax and the Farmers Market School

The newest trend in California cooking in Los Angeles might be called the Farmers Market School. This trend has its roots, of course, in the ’80s food revolution and Alice Waters‘ search for purveyors of fine ingredients. Going to a farmers market is nothing new to some chefs -- Nancy......
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Sausage on the Brain

Two years ago, I ate such a good sausage, I never stopped thinking about it. I ate it during a weeklong house party of friends at a chateau in Rougemont, in the Swiss Alps, a few miles from Gstaad. Directly across from the chateau, a small funicular rose thousands of......
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Eat This, Grandma

It is a generally acknowledged truth among those who regularly eat out that a whole roasted chicken is always better at home. The whole bird is too much for any one person, and the 40 minutes or so required to cook it is an awkward wait for most customers. Many......
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Thrown for a Loup

The Water Grill, reliably corporate, has always been known for high-quality fresh seafood, and is the chosen downtown Los Angeles sanctum of the city’s discerning oyster lovers and other fruits de mer addicts. But is it a serious food lover‘s restaurant? In recent years, the Water Grill has been named......
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Ice Cream as Architecture

  I‘ve eaten a fair amount of ice cream in the past few weeks -- it’s ice cream season, after all -- and it has become obvious that ice cream cones are subject to variations not only in flavor, but also in structure, shape and style. A well-formed ice cream......
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Depths

Near the end of Ethan Canin‘s 1998 novel, For Kings and Planets, the stolid Midwestern Orno Tarcher reflects, “He had always expected to decide his fate the way his father had decided his; to decide his character, really -- upright decisions in an upright life. But instead he had merely......
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Thinking Pink

I had been meaning to try Pink Dot since I first heard of it: groceries and deli food, ordered online or over the phone, and delivered within half an hour. What convenience! What luxury! What a dangerous dream for a freelance writer -- another excuse never to leave the house......