A Fondness for Roundness
Illustration by Dana Collins THERE'S SOMETHING SO PLEASING ABOUT A MEATBALL. ROUNDNESS, for one. Self-containment. Wholeness. Children are naturally drawn to them. Meatballs are like sausages without their casings, hamburgers without their buns, meat loaf in bite-size form. They're a little-mentioned comfort food whose heyday was probably in the '50s......

