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A Changing Chinatown


Braised pig tail with peanuts at Jade WokBraised pig tail with peanuts at Jade WokBraised pig tail with peanuts at Jade WokBurgerlordsDouble cheeseburger at BurgerlordsDouble cheeseburger at BurgerlordsDouble cheeseburger at BurgerlordsDouble cheeseburger at BurgerlordsDouble cheeseburger at BurgerlordsPreserved vegetables with pork belly at Jade WokDiners at Jade WokHousemade bean curd at Jade WokHousemade bean curd at Jade Wok

After three decades of slow but steady decline, Chinatown is reversing course. Far East Plaza, an odd little two-story pedestrian mall, now houses Roy Choi's rice bowl restaurant, Chego; a hip ramen joint; ice cream and coffee shops; and a casual outpost of Pok Pok that specializes in phat Thai noodles. The resurgence hasn't been limited to that particular plaza. Little Jewel, a New Orleans deli that took over a faded Chinese seafood restaurant, and Burgerlords, a takeout serving classic cheeseburgers and fries, have both attracted young, hip followings. Less than two blocks away, the finishing touches are being put on a larger apartment complex, which is expected to open this spring. Where hip restaurants go, hip apartments follow. Find out what food editor Garrett Snyder learned by eating at every restaurant in Chinatown.