Ah, the blogroll. It sounds stupid, like someone's Internet omakase joke, but, as the number of food blogs increases — there are apparently now 11,427 food blogs — having a list of good links grows ever more important. So here's one to add to your blogroll, should you be inclined: The Awl. Locate it halfway between the total irreverence of The Onion and the earnest necessary news of The Atlantic.

The Awl is a New York-based website, started in 2009 and run by two editors, Alex Balk and Choire Sicha. They cover news, culture, television, etc. (“we do enjoy a good video of a bear running amok as much as we do London mayoral politics”) as well as, on occasion, food. The Awl's food coverage includes sporadic DIY posts, the best of which is titled: “How to Cook A Fucking Steak.”

It is a masterful, expletive-ridden rant about, well, how to cook a fucking steak. “Go to the goddamn grocery and get steak. Yes, the grocery. A little ammonia is not going to kill you, you pussy. You want to be all fancy and grass-fed and environmentally conscious, go ahead, I don't give a shit, just get a fucking steak. Ribeye is good.” It is also the perfect antidote not only to purely carnivorous hunger, but to much of the often precious coverage of food that one finds elsewhere, and yes, sometimes here as well.

In addition to the brilliant steak entry, The Awl has done quite a number of food-related posts, including their most recent “How to Cook the Ideal Fourth Date Meal,” and many recipes and videos. Sicha, a Melrose Avenue coffee server in a previous life, emailed us the following explanation: “Randomly, almost a year ago, one of us wrote a recipe and then we decided that was a ridiculous — but also useful — thing to do.” One could say the same thing about most food coverage, if you think about it.

LA Weekly