The spice route through Los Angeles? Since the recent opening of Spice Table, it travels via downtown's Little Tokyo district. And thus to And thus to this week's Counter Intelligence and Jonathan Gold's review of Bryant Ng's new restaurant.
Spice Table, a high-ceilinged, candlelit restaurant in a patch of Little Tokyo better known for noodle shops and izakayas, seems to gather half the strands of contemporary cooking into a single, weathered-brick restaurant. You can smell the wood smoke from the brick hearth from a block or two away, and the roster of craft beers is as long as the wine list.