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This week, Jonathan Gold visits Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo's second restaurant, Son of a Gun. That would be their fish restaurant: Imagine going through the Animal menu and replacing all the pork products with corresponding bits of seafood. Okay, that's not exactly accurate, but you get the idea.

Son of a Gun was where you went for a single, nearly raw Santa Barbara spot prawn; for seared albacore drizzled with ponzu; or for a few dimes of raw, sliced geoduck with olive oil and sea salt, an appetizer meted out in quarter-grams, like cocaine.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Son of a Gun: Give a Man a Fish,” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then, probably, get in your car.