As some of us have mentioned before, you can never have too many noodle palaces in the San Gabriel Valley, nor can you read too many reviews of them. And thus to this week's Counter Intelligence and Jonathan Gold's review of Noodle Guy, which is worth reading and writing about, and of course visiting, if only for the name. Also because Wagyu phở may be the best combination we've heard about since, well, maybe the kimchi taco.

The tables are filled with teenagers. The guys waiting tables may or not be graduate students at UC Irvine. Even the soup bowls are kind of nice, or at least nice enough to make it clear that they were not the single cheapest bowls available at the restaurant-supply store that day. I've been in four or five times, and my elbows have yet to stick to the table, which is probably a record when it comes to local noodle shops.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Supreme in Soup,” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then, probably, get in your car.

LA Weekly