Can you visit — or review — too many San Gabriel Valley noodle palaces? One thinks not. Jonathan Gold certainly would argue that you can't, which is why he reviews another one, Nha Trang on Valley, in this week's Counter Intelligence.

Which is to say, here we are again on Valley Boulevard, in another well-worn mini-mall, which seems mostly deserted yet is full of cars. We are outside Nha Trang, a cramped shop specializing in the noodles of Central Vietnam, and the reason we are outside is because the restaurant itself is slightly smaller than the backseat of a Hyundai — 15, 16 seats tops. Unless it happens to be a rainy Tuesday, you are going to spend a fair amount of time in the parking lot, idly comparing rates posted outside the many neighboring foot-massage parlors, and you will wonder what kind of person signs on to get her feet rubbed before noon. Your turn will come eventually. If you are lucky, the restaurant will not yet have run out of soup.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Pho's Bro Says Hello,” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then, probably, get in your car.

LA Weekly