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For all of us who've been patiently (and impatiently) awaiting Sang Yoon's new restaurant — you know, the one that does not serve burgers — it finally opened its doors not too long ago. And thus to this week's Counter Intelligence and Jonathan Gold's review of Lukshon.

Authenticity is the least of Yoon's fixations — I suspect he couldn't care less that his thick, coconut-intensive version of the Chiang Mai-style noodle dish khao soi is much closer to a richer Malaysian laksa, or that his garlic pork belly, a stir-fry of braised chunks of fat meat with vegetables and chewy rice cakes, splits the difference between Sichuan twice-cooked pork and Korean tteokbokki.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Yoon Moves Beyond Burgers,” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then, probably, get in your car.