This week, Jonathan Gold visits Chimú, the new Peruvian outdoor restaurant next to downtown's Grand Central Market. Pork belly. Beef hearts. Chicha morada. Chalk drawings of Yoda. What more could anyone possibly want.
The first time I was there, the guy behind the counter apologized for the commonness of pork belly, which he insisted had become a cliché, but Chimú's chancho, thick slabs of belly braised then fried to a supernal crunch, is the best dish in the restaurant, smeared with a spicy black-mint aioli and nestled into a bed of barley cooked down with tomatoes.
Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Mario Alberto Orellana's Chimú opens in Bunker Hill,” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then, probably, get in your car.