This week, Jonathan Gold visits Antojitos Carmen in Boyle Heights. More adventures in street food, the joys of brick-and-mortar locations, and chicken in mole.
There are restored pictures on the wall, mostly from Castellanos' village in Michoacán; rather elegant lamb barbacoa on weekends; and a small specialty in caldo de res, a beef-vegetable soup. Weekend mixiotes? A taste of Guerrero, beef and pork steamed in maguey leaves. Menudo? What the hell.