This week Jonathan Gold considers Tsujita L.A., the newish ramen shop on Sawtelle. Tsujita is not exactly one of the crammed noodle closets that are the tsukemen shops in Tokyo — 5 seats, Foo Fighters blasting, 15 minutes to slurp your noodles so the drunk guys outside can get in — but it's a lot more peaceful and the noodles are pretty great. Perhaps we'll get some closets next year. Please?
Tsukemen is hip in all the usual ways, including obscurity, a stylized consumption ritual and flavor of an intensity that can be overwhelming the first few times out, like Skrillex or Scotch whisky.