This week, Jonathan Gold considers Picca, Ricardo Zarate's bright red new restaurant on Pico Boulevard (the alliteration is purposeful), the state of Peruvian cuisine and — albeit briefly — the culinary dream team recently assembled in Lima.

Any good chef in town is likely to drop a kernel of giant corn, a sweet-potato puree or a ceviche on you these days, but most prominently, Zarate's Westside anticucho bar, Picca, is one of the toughest reservations in town on weekends — so popular that it occasionally runs out of beef heart, which doesn't tend to happen in real life.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “We're running out of beef heart,” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then maybe get in your car.

LA Weekly