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In which Jonathan Gold ventures down Sunset Boulevard to Night and Market, the Thai market attached to Talesai, to find — in a rather unlikely place — street food.

Pork belly? Of course, flavored with fish sauce; sweet, fried ribs with garlic; and a huge pork hock braised in soy. The fried pig tails are as hard to leave alone as popcorn — an 8-year-old of my acquaintance paused only briefly when he was informed that they weren't spareribs.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Street Eats on Sunset,” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then maybe get in your car.