This week Jonathan Gold stops by the Scuola di Pizza to appreciate the whole hog dinners that chef Chad Colby orchestrates every Saturday, or pretty much every Saturday, within the inner sanctum of Mozza. One pig and the fruits thereof. Imagine.

A 10-hour roasted pork shoulder falls into shreds on the plate — be prepared to stab your neighbor with a fork if she snags the last piece of crunchy, fatty skin — and when you moisten it with a bit of the sharp salsa verde, the flavors almost glow.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Pig of the Week,” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then maybe get in your car.