This week, Jonathan Gold considers the moveable snook feast orchestrated by chef Sergio Peñuelas, whose Inglewood restaurant Mariscos Chente has recently been renamed Coni'Seafood. Same restaurant, same chef, even kind of still the same name (it hasn't been changed on the front yet). And yes, same snook. (Stop hyperventilating.)

The blaring TV in the corner never quiets, but the first time I walked in after the remodel, somebody changed the channel from the soccer game to a National Geographic nature documentary, and nobody complained. Clearly, something else is at work here. If they like you, you may see an off-menu plate of raw scallops and chewy sea snails.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Thanks for all the Fish,” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then maybe get in your car.

LA Weekly