Dear Mr. Gold:

Yogurt seems to be all the rage these days, but when I was in Las Vegas recently, I ate at a custard shop near the Stratosphere called Luv-It Frozen Custard, and I liked it a lot. I also like Vegas, but I don’t want to have to drive there every time I have a hankering for custard. Are there any custard shops in Los Angeles?

—David, Los Angeles

Dear David:

There was an actual rage for frozen custard a couple of years ago, but many of the places, including the chain Lickety Split, appear to be defunct. Chili My Soul in Encino used to serve custard, but it seems to have gone over to Dandy Don’s ice cream. Taste of Chicago in Burbank has the real thing, but greater connoisseurs than I seem to disdain the stuff. (My personal custard grail is Leon’s in Milwaukee.) Which brings us to the swank Hollywood burger joint Lucky Devils, which not only flavors its custard with Madagascar vanilla beans, but is prepared to blend it into a milk shake with freshly roasted pecans if that’s what you’re into — a beverage so good that it almost makes you forget about the zillion microbrews the restaurant has on tap. 6613 Hollywood Blvd., Hlywd., (323) 465-8259.

—Jonathan Gold

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