One of the many advantages of living and dining in Los Angeles is that you can wear shorts to your favorite Michelin-starred restaurant. Now not only can you walk into Spago in flip-flops, but you have someplace where your Che Guevara T-shirt will be seriously appropriate attire. It might even get you in the door, assuming you can find it.

The Supper Liberation Front, a sort-of secret supper club, was launched in February by two former white-tablecloth chefs with the noms de guerre of Sacco and Vanzetti, who “love fancy kitchen tools but hate fancy airs. We cook not for fame or fortune or to put our names on frozen pizzas. Occasionally we advocate culinary anarchy.”

There are a few caveats, because it's secret and therefore there are rules. The chefs have actual families, so they don't cook on weekends (they serve Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays). You don't know the location (permit issues, etc.) until you sign up and have both your reservation and the location confirmed via email. Oh, and you can't make a reservation in the first place unless you know the chefs personally, or are friends with somebody who is, or has dined with them before.

“The way we have it structured,” said Sacco (or Vanzetti; it's difficult to say who's who) recently, “it's very mob oriented. It's cheaper for everyone involved, and it turns into a party.” Consider that $35 gets you a four-course menu that includes dishes like blue mackerel with ume gelee, shiso and house-made plum paste; lobster tartare with sunchoke pudding, and Meyer lemon and back truffle vinaigrette; and Florentine rice pudding with stawberries and pistachios. BYOB, of course.

Reservations can be made via their website, or you can call an actual telephone number, although it changes often. Hey, they probably answer it under a spinning fan or beside a working samovar; or maybe it's one of those disposable phones everybody uses on NCIS. Gotta stay ahead of the restaurant spies. And yes, you can follow them on Facebook and via Twitter @guerilladining (“menu for mon april 12, thur 15 & fri 16: lil bites; jelly fish, puffed anson mills grits, nopales, avocado,…”), which seems to be our version of zamisdat.

LA Weekly