Schnitzly: fried potatoes

As its name implies, Schnitzly is devoted to the schnitzel, which is too bad since their version, made with chicken, is heavy, dry and served in hefty wraps or sub sandwiches, even with the dozen or so sauces you can slather on top of them. That level of mediocrity is nothing new on Pico Boulevard's “Kosher Corridor,” where the food is generally forgettable and costs 20% more than similar non-kosher fare. There is, however, one reason to go to Schnitzly, even if you don't keep kosher: their chips.

Schnitzly: schnitzel wrapNot chips in the American sense (i.e. potato chips) or chips the way the Brits mean it (i.e. French fries). Chips as in slender discs of potato, deep-fried to order, chewy on the outside and fluffy inside. They're served piping hot in an abundant portion satisfying enough for two hungry people — and for $3.49. Here's where those dipping sauces come in handy. The pesto and garlic mayo are my favorites, but I could easily eat a whole plate of Schnitzly's chips adorned with nothing but table salt.

Schnitzly: 9216 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; (424) 249 3365.

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