For even the biggest fans among us, the superb quality of Mozza’s pizza must often take second place to its sheer unavailability: the marriage of runny egg, wood-charred crackle and Matt Molina’s own guanciale rendered subsidiary to our lack of a reservation. As with the famous natural-starter bread recipe of Mozza’s co-owner Nancy Silverton, if you want to eat tonight, it is necessary to have begun the process last month. So any increase in the supply of Mozza pizza is what St. Thomas Aquinas used to call a Universal Good. And the existence of Mozza 2Go, an outlet next door to Osteria Mozza and tricked out to resemble an ancient food shop in Chiusi or Pienza, prepares a pretty broad range of Mozza pizza by preorder, to folks who wait in line — or even by delivery, the availability of which should bump up property values in adjacent areas. (Standard disclaimer: Silverton is a family friend. A family friend who happens to make breathtakingly good pizza.)
In addition to a full array of Pizzeria Mozza salads, antipasti, lasagne and panini, Mozza 2Go offers a few things not available in the restaurant proper: a porchetta sandwich that practically explodes with fennel pollen; a short, flaky coconut-almond cookie good enough to bring you to your knees; and a flat, round, hot panino stuffed with greens and custom-made stracciatella cheese that is the closest thing to the legendary torta al testo of central Umbria you’ll ever find in California.
There are a few short-term parking spaces behind the restaurant — enter from Highland — and possibly a few stools in the forthcoming pizza school next door, but takeout is definitely the emphasis.
6610 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, (323) 297-0100, www.mozza2go.com. Open for takeout and delivery Tues.-Sun., noon to 11 p.m.