Sliced baguette served with high-quality butter lets you know that this is a pastry kitchen and bakery to be reckoned with. It also sets the stage for what can be a lesson in classic French comfort. Giraud excels in simple luxuries: an eggshell, hollowed out and refilled with egg custard and savory chantilly and topped with caviar. Fat scallops come with a melting leek fondue for an appetizer so rich it could almost be an entrée. Read the story.