Le Comptoir Serves Luxury and Austerity

Assembling the first course -Summer 2014 tomato veloutéAssembling the first course -Summer 2014 tomato velouté, greek yogurt, fried bread crumbs

Chef Gary Menes' farm and its harvest provide the basis for the six-course meal he serves, courses that pair decidedly unsweet butternut squash with the sugary pop of preserved blueberries, or stone-ground polenta with sweet onion, onion jus, apple, almonds and romanesco. Though veggies are Menes' main infatuation, other obsessions reveal themselves: the stretchy, chewy, crusty bread made from a 20-year-old starter; the single-origin coffee; the optional cheese course with rare cheeses. For any and all of these items, Menes will give you the rundown as he serves you, gushing about the 90-year-old who produced your creamy Roquefort or describing the exact roasting process of his coffee beans. All photos by Anne Fishbein.

See also, Le Comptoir Takes Bare-Bones Dining to the Extreme

LA Weekly