As an artistic act — and there's no doubt that chef Michael Voltaggio views ink. as a stage on which to perform his art — the restaurant is an expression of both ego and location. The setup of the place forms a quite literal stage: A diagonal open kitchen faces a room draped in dark gray paint. It's a play on the name, of course, to saturate the whole restaurant in inky heft, but it also allows the glow emanating from that kitchen window to illuminate Voltaggio as he works. Read the story.