Lori Gottlieb

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French Fry Nation

“You know I want another doughnut, you fucking bitch.” A chubby, preteen Betsy Lerner imagines telling off a friend’s skinny mother when she superciliously offers a second one. Instead, the 12-year-old declines with a defiant “I’m not hungry.” But Lerner, it turns out, is always hungry — for food, love,......