Ben Calderwood

One appendage demands another; Credit: Ben Calderwood

Fear and Bravery at New Capital Seafood

The parapets of New Capital Seafood pierce the haze over San Gabriel, visible for a good distance along Valley Boulevard and Del Mar Avenue. The 11.5 acre shopping bazaar in which it sits may be anchored by 99 Ranch and Focus Department Store, but this is New Capital's court, and......
Credit: Outstanding in the Field

Forks Up! Outstanding in the Field Tix Still Available

Seats at chef-artist Jim Denevan's wildly popular communal table concept, the idiosyncratic, touring farmer-foodie collaboration known as Outstanding in the Field, have been selling out all over the country months in advance and despite their steep, if cost-appropriate, price of entry. Squid Ink previously reported on these remarkable mass meals,......
Into the night: 91% theobroma cacao; Credit: Ben Calderwood

The 70% Solution: Tasting Notes on Theo Costa Rican Dark Chocolate

The chocolate valet returns with a distinctive ultra-dark bar from niche producer Theo of Seattle, Washington, originator of domestically manufactured fair trade chocolate. Producer: Theo, Seattle. Bean: Costa Rican single-origin. Content: 91% cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, vanilla. No added lecithin......
personal coffee syphon; Credit: Hario Glass

Best Syphon Coffee

Tendered on a mirror-like tray alongside a spare cup of water and a complimentary dish of nuts and dried fruit, your Wallenford, Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee arrives in a slender glass mug, tawny and fragrant. You are encouraged not to drink it......
Slivers of Jamon Ibérico glisten; Credit: Ben Calderwood

Pound of Flesh: Jamon Ibérico de Bellota

Consider for a moment the casual brutality of the jamonera, little more than a wooden plank and a upright clamp in which to mount a leg of ham. The shank end is secured to the clamp via a spike or bolts, making it easy to shave the gelatinous flesh from......
The many flavors of fake; Credit: May Wah

May Wah Inc., the Vegan Restaurant's Secret Weapon

The vegan chef de cuisine has three options when planning his animal-free menu. First, ignore mock-meat entirely and serve tofu as tofu and vegetables as vegetables, without subterfuge. Such is the approach at M Cafe de Chaya, those green tendrils sprouting from the Chaya empire's trunk, where plants and plant-based......
Banh mi ID: the baguettes; Credit: Ben Calderwood

Squid Ink Challenge: Banh Mi ID

It is not, generally speaking, good politics to wax fondly about colonialism, especially in a metropolis as prismatic as Los Angeles. That said, we will always have banh mi, the French-Vietnamese cross-platform construction of squishy baguette, pickled carrot and daikon, cilantro, meat and--depending on which sandwich you order where--enough raw......
Chicharron and asphalt; Credit: Ben Calderwood

The Many Names of Mariscos Guillen La Playita

It may have two or possibly three names, or no proper name at all--regulars call it the blue shack, and that will do nicely. Nothing at this cash-only Venice/Santa Monica taco stand is renegade, or even all that spicy. I fear a hissing shamble of Yelpers--watch out, the Elites are......
Empanada's Place Arabe hot from the fryer; Credit: Ben Calderwood

Time Out at Empanada's Place

An Argentine gentleman I used to work with packed his calabash gourd so densely with yerba maté every morning, the sound of him drawing tea through the dented steel bombilla was audible in the next room. This was the first of perhaps five daily doses; the sack of maté rarely......
Pressed Heartichoke sandwich; Credit: Ben Calderwood

Earl's Gourmet Grub Preliminary Recon

Earl's Gourmet Grub celebrated its matriculation from well-trafficked Farmers' Market sandwich stall to full-service retail with a very soft open last week, in a sunny, modern space adjoining Venice Grind coffeehouse. Earl's shares a rear patio, a landlord and clientele with the Mar Vista beanery--the path of travel is such......