Where in Los Angeles can one get goat meat? I grew up eating West Indian goat curries in NYC, but I haven’t found the L.A. source.

—Jessica Gadsden

Dear Jessica:

Pretty much every Jamaican restaurant serves something like the curried goat you are looking for — my favorite is probably at Natraliart on Washington Boulevard, a version that practically vibrates with ginger.

The Trinidadian goat roti at Caribbean Treehouse on Centinela Avenue near the airport is formidable. The goat at TiGeorge’s Haitian restaurant on Glendale Boulevard near downtown is very tasty. The key to finding great goat in Los Angeles may be to look at restaurant windows for the word “birria,” the name of an amazing roast-goat stew beloved by émigrés from Zacatecas and Guadalajara. There’s a lot of great birria in town, but my favorite is probably at El Parian, on Pico Boulevard just west of the Convention Center. Still, it would be wrong to slight the goaty contributions of the Oaxacans, whose incendiary, complexly spiced barbacoa is one of the better goat stews in the world, and you will find an excellent version at Las 7 Regiones de Oaxaca, 2648 W. Pico Blvd., L.A. (213) 385-7458.

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