Every year, Italians the world over celebrate La Vigilia de Natale, or the Labor of Mary, with a bereaved act of abstention: opting away from red meat for the evening, instead gorging themselves on fish as only Italians can. Here in America, we call this meal the Feast of Seven Fishes, and if you're Italian, you probably remember long dinners around some elder's table with the catch of the day soaked in fragrant, tangy marinara. At Union, the feast comes with escabeche of sardines, squid ink maccheroni alla chitarra, olive-oil poached albacore, baby octopus, Calabrian chile branzino and a whole smorgasboard of Italian goodies.
Wed., Dec. 24, 4-10 p.m., 2014
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