Commissary: Roy Choi's "Country Club for the Public"

Deviled eggs; Credit: Photo by Anne FishbeinDeviled eggs; Credit: Photo by Anne Fishbein

There's a lot to love about the place, regardless of how much we buy into (or understand) its philosophy. The space is a garden fantasy, an actual greenhouse built on the roof next to the pool and containing all the leafy magic of a butterfly house at the zoo but better, because here there are cocktails. The menus arrive in stamped-and-sent, yellowed envelopes looking like WWI-era love letters from across the Pacific but addressed to such luminaries as Kanye West and bearing the address of one of Choi's other restaurants. Inside the envelope are picture cards that serve as menus, a grid of illustrations depicting dishes or single ingredients. There are no dish descriptions, but the calming directive from Choi at the top of the menu reassures: “There are no words. I know, I know. Don't freak out. Trust the pictures.”

LA Weekly