There's a restaurant in Downey that serves a 40-ounce rib-eye tomahawk steak. It's not exactly meant for stunt eating, because not that many people can spend $115 on a joke, but it is a pronouncement on what kind of restaurant this is: a place to get culinarily lit.

LKSD Kitchen is a relatively new arrival to sleepy downtown Downey, but it's made a huge splash, mostly through savvy use of social media. A lot of the dishes are absurdly decadent-looking (like that tomahawk), which, as we all know, makes for Instagram gold. But if a restaurant forgets to make the food actually, you know, taste good, then Instagram will only sustain it for so long.

Happily for anyone financially invested in LKSD, the food does indeed taste good. Some of it is too silly, like the “Mess Burger,” which has, among other toppings, nacho cheese sauce and Hot Cheetos in the mix. One wonders if that ever gets ordered a second time.

But other over-the-top items are delightful, such as the duck fat fries served with shredded duck confit and maple syrup. The house burger, which crosses a steakhouse monstrosity with classic SoCal, In-N-Out-style flavors, is a serious contender for best burger in Southeast L.A. County. It can be topped with bacon, egg or, in a hometown nod, pastrami.

The whole menu is aggressively meat-heavy with, I believe, only two truly vegetarian items on the menu. (One of them is the tomato basil soup. It becomes almost adorable that this rollicking, masculine, “eat it with your hands” restaurant uses vegetable stock for its soup.)

The physical centerpiece of the restaurant is the bar, and the spirits and beer menu is pages long. Order a Lyft and indulge in a mini bacchanal.

1033 Downey Ave, Downey; (562) 822-8281,

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