Brunch at The Bazaar has always been fun, a playful procession of wacky dishes and foaming drinks in a setting that looks rather like a cross between Monty Python and Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette. Last week, José Andrés himself was in his fun-house, which considerably upped the rah-rah factor. The brunch menu sports some new dishes (air bread with smoked salmon, olive oil pancakes, Torrijas Spanish toast). And this month the restaurant appointed a new chef de cuisine, Joshua Whigham, who has worked with Andrés for six years, in both Washington and New York, as well as on the opening team at The Bazaar. (The previous chef de cuisine, Michael Voltaggio, decamped for Top Chef and The Langham.)
While the bartenders filled the outdoor patio with liquid nitrogen clouds, Andrés played with chocolate lollipops and explained that the way he gets the egg shells to stay on their slate bases was really a lot simpler than it looked. “Black and Decker!” Ah, the molecular gastronomist's toolshed.