Over on Eater national, Dirt Candy chef Amanda Cohen looks deeply into the question of when a new restaurant should be reviewed, and how the ever-earlier reviews impact the business. This spawned a piece by Colman Andrews saying that critics should review as soon as a place opens. Which makes all kinds of points but leaves out the bit about how a review on opening night is unlikely to give people a real sense of what a restaurant will be over the course of its life, which is (or should be) the point of writing an informed formal review. Am I editorializing? Whoops…
Speaking of what food writers should and shouldn't do (jeeze we're a self-referential bunch), Javier Cabral has an impassioned piece about why it's wrong to write about street food vendors.
NPR's food blog has a cool story about how snobbery made European cooking bland.
Over at the LA Times, Amy Scattergood has an update on Ricardo Zarate, who has been mostly silent since his departure from all of his restaurants, but says he's moved on to other projects.