Many folks today would say that we've reached Peak Bacon — that our love of swine has become a cliché. Those are the petty, trend-chasing folks who've never sunk their teeth into the crackly, burnished-amber skin of a Filipino whole roasted pig (aka lechon baboy) from Eva's. Since 1980 — and much like Jiro with his sushi — these artisans of pork have been doing just one dish with a meditated perfection and singular vision. The whole porker, purchased only with advance notice for off-premises consumption, comes with one accompaniment: a tangy mang tomas liver sauce. The smallest portion at Eva's is an entire quarter of an animal — but when you're dealing with succulent chunks of perfectly roasted hog flesh, why choose partial measures when you can go all the way? A medium-sized whole pig will run you about $300 and will feed 50 or more people. Order Eva's swine and a party will present itself.

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