If you've eaten those garnet-hued camote (sweet potato) nuggets and amber chunks of candied calabaza (squash) at local dulcerias, chances are they're from East L.A.'s La Zamorana. Since 1957, this tiny, family-run factory has been churning out the authentic Mexican candies you wish your abuela still stashed in your lunch sack. Founder José Mendez immigrated to Los Angeles from Zamora de Hidalgo in Michoacán, otherwise known as the candy capital of Mexico. Mendez first hit East L.A. with a single street cart full of tarugo (tamarind pulp candies). Today his son, Vicente, and grandchildren keep our sweet tooth happy. Besides, this is vegetable candy. So it's healthy, right? But 23-year-old grandson Vince sees increasing global competition as a potential threat to the local sweet life. “Mexico has been exporting candies at really low prices recently because they don't have to follow the regulations we do,” says the youngest Mendez. Judging by the dulceria owners who drive down from as far as Sacramento to restock their shelves, it's clear this is still considered the real camote and calabaza deal. Available at Vallarta supermarket, 13051 Victory Blvd., N. Hlywd. (818) 760-7021. Also at many Hispanic small markets. For more locations, go to zamoranacandy.com or call (323) 261-1817.
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