L.A. pizza joints are a dime a dozen, dotting the landscape like pieces of pepperoni and sausage. While there are a few clear leaders of the pack, like Pizzeria Mozza and Santa Monica Place's Pizza Antica, if its indulgence, thin crust and black truffles you seek, there's only one place to go: Enoteca Drago in Beverly Hills.

The fact is you can get paper-thin slices of prosciutto, ricotta-filled squash blossoms and oozing burrata at many pizza places in this town. But when it comes to black truffles — and we're not talking about a “drizzle” of truffle oil, a cheater's tactic relied upon by (too) many restaurants looking to give their pizzas a fake truffle kick — Enoteca Drago's Pizza Bomba opts for the real thing. The menu simply describes the pizza as having mozzarella, caramelized onions and black truffles, but what it doesn't tell you is that the pizza arrives with a still-bubbling layer of mozzarella, caramelized onions so delicate that they've practically dissolved, and gigantic slices of black truffle that float among the cheese like inky lily pads. As if that's not enough, the real kicker is that the three ingredients find themselves melting between two wafer-like crusts.

So is the Pizza Bomba part pizza, part calzone or part melt? We don't know. We don't care. We just know it's great.

Enoteca Drago: 410 North Canon Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 786-8236.

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